Our Camino 2015 Part 2

Journal On! Grand Prompt to Ask Your Grand

Did you ever take on a challenge that went beyond your comfort zone? Who or what inspired the challenge? How did you prepare? Did anyone help you along the way? What made this challenge special? What did you accomplish? 

 Our Camino Part II

April 3, 2015  Good Friday

 I reached the first rendezvous, Ruta Jacobea, alone and armed with fragments of high school Spanish and an English to Spanish app translator. Thankfully, most of the world spoke English. The hotel was quaint, cozy, and full of pilgrims—peregrinos, anxious to make it to the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela for Easter celebrations. 

Since Robyn was not due for several hours, I strolled toward Santiago and soon found my first talisman, a scallop shell on a stone wall. The head of the shell faced toward Santiago. The ribs of the scallop shell represent the many paths that lead to the one.

I shouted, “I am really here doing this!!” 

April 4, 2015

 Robyn arrived last night. We had a light breakfast that included incredible coffee. The hotel clerk stamped our peregrino passports and wished us a “Bien Camino”.  

Fruit tree blossoms and daffodils, and tulips lined the road. Mountains lined the periphery of the expanse and set off from a clear blue sky. The crisp air made it perfect walking weather with a twenty-five pound backpack. More and more pilgrims flooded alongside and eventually ahead of us. Robyn stayed very patient with my mom pace and flora distractions.  

It took most of the day to reach the city of Santiago. To my surprise, I remained steady on the soft uphill climb. Walking sticks proved to be a marvel. The city bustled with traffic and streams of people flooding in. Tall buildings lined the highway. Santiago was a busy city. 

With one step, we left modern Santiago and entered the old world. Narrow cobble streets, stores packed tightly together, smells of fish and bread, bellowing bagpipes and loud invitations to sit, eat, drink surrounded our walk . 

We continued along the narrow streets, uphill, dodging people, until space and air opened to a vast plaza and the huge cathedral. I had never seen such an amazing structure, the architectural artistry, incredible spires, and the stories sculpted on the walls. The construction of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela began in 1057   on the foundations of a small church dedicated to the Apostle James. The cathedral’s construction lasted 145 years,and was consecrated in 1211. Through the centuries, legends and accounts bisected and challenged the origins and life of the cathedral. On this day of my discovery, I stood in awe of the magnificence. 

Everything was beautiful—the fountains, vendors hawking souvenirs, street performers. An aria floated in from the music school on one of the many streets. I also noticed silent beggars tuck close the walls, on their knees, eyes cast down, arms outstretched. I put a euro in a few cans. 

We could not enter the cathedral with our backpacks. After a delightful cafe stop near the plaza, we planned to check into the hotel, change, and return without our gear. 

We arrived back at the old city just as the day was setting. A solemn parade neared, so we followed the crowd to the side, and found a small table where a small plate of delicious tapas appeared and a waiter took our wine order. 

Parishioners led the march in hoods! As Americans, a hooded procession evokes a very scary association. Our friendly waiter explained the capirote, hoods, represented penance for sins against God and fellow man. These hoods evolved in the New World as dunce caps- a means to shame foolish behavior. 

The parade marched in a side-to-side stride as if carrying a heavy burden. Trumpets, drums and bagpipes played. Children, including girls, followed, carrying lights and symbols of Jesus’ crucifixion. The pageant continued slowly with a giant cross carried by a barefoot sinner, and huge floats depicting the crucifixion and the Virgin Mary’s suffering. 

What a day!

April 5 · Easter Sunday Feliz Pasqua!

Robyn and I followed a procession to morning Mass- standing room only. The magnificence of the inside of this cathedral was overwhelming. Sculptures, the stories in the stained glass, the detail carving in the pews exuded beauty and homage to the faith. The incense aroma from the Botafumerio brought back childhood memories of Mass. 

Time truly stood still here, including the schedule for Mass, which began 45 minutes late, and that was just getting the relics, priests to the altar. 

Every Camino pilgrim has their reasons. I walked the path to prove I can be stronger than the disease that lurked in my body. I did not want a metastatic cancer diagnosis to stall my ambitions and adventures. The bonus was to share this incredible journey with my daughter, who had her own reasons for walking the Camino with her mother. 

Robyn and I spent the rest of the day on an audio tour of the cathedral, tasting pulpo in different ways and chatting with pilgrims who would also walk the path to Finisterre. 

Monday April 6, 2015

Robyn and I shrugged on our backpacks and started out before sunrise. We made it to the top of a hill to see daybreak over the cathedral (incredible) and soon found an opened cafe. The weather promised a beautiful day.

Saturday April 6-12, 2015

Our Camino was not the classic two to three-month journey. It was a 60km walk to the Finisterre. Short yet enough for us. We trekked uphill, treaded carefully on slippery rocks, admired the beautiful countryside, and enjoyed the company of others along the road. The scallop shell and legends were our constant compass. 

I came through with a few bruises and aches that soon faded. My first blister appeared on the last day! Although I have always said and believed myself to be fine, the cancer that loomed within me occasionally gives me pause to doubt. However, after the Camino, it was a long while before doubt crept back. We raised almost $4000 to donate to Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center Metastatic Cancer research!

The highlight of the adventure was accomplishing it with Robyn. Getting the elusive quality time with those I love is a valuable, memorable and genuine endeavor. I strive to this day to stay true to my mantra—Every Day is a Gift. Share the Love and Adventure. 

Thank you for reading a Journal On! Grand Prompt to Ask Your Grand. I invite you to exercise your writer’s hand and link your prompt response in the comments below.

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